Spring lawn care: what to do from March to May
After winter, hardly any lawn looks good: leaves and twigs lie on the surface, some spots are matted, others patchy or mossy. Spring is the time to get the lawn going again. If you look at the soil rather than the calendar, you save yourself a lot of work and disappointment. Here you can read what to do from March to May and in which order.
In short
- March: tidy up, stay off the lawn when it is wet or frozen, take a soil sample.
- April: first cut once the grasses are growing, first feed once the soil is warm.
- Late April to May: renovate if needed. Mow short, aerate or spike, top-dress, overseed.
- Soil temperature sets the pace: overseed only from about 10 °C.
- A major renovation works better in September. In spring, a lighter treatment is often enough.
Soil temperature decides
Whether it is a mild day in March or a cold one in May: grasses, soil life and seed do not respond to the date but to the warmth in the soil. And in spring the soil warms up much more slowly than the air. A simple soil thermometer pushed in about 5 cm deep shows you when each job makes sense.
March: waking up
Tidy up: remove leaves, twigs and molehills from the lawn so light reaches the grasses. A leaf rake or a light rake is enough. Deep raking is not needed yet.
Stay off: as long as the soil is wet or frozen, avoid the lawn as far as possible. Wet soil compacts with every step, and frozen blades break.
Snow mould: carefully rake out grey, matted patches after the snow melts so the spot can dry. The lawn usually grows back in by itself. More in Lawn diseases.
Soil sample: if you plan to feed anyway, now is a good time for a soil analysis. It shows pH and nutrients before you apply the first feed.
April: getting started
First cut: as soon as the grasses are visibly growing, usually in April, the first cut is due. Only take off the tips and lower the cutting height to your target over several cuts. A rotary mower is better for the first cut as long as twigs, small stones or sand may still be on the surface. Use the reel mower once the surface is clean, otherwise the cutting unit suffers. More about cutting correctly on our page Mowing.
First feed: once the soil has warmed to about 8 to 10 °C, organic fertiliser works. The first feed is nitrogen-rich and gives the grasses strength for spring growth. Which fertiliser and how much is explained in Feeding your lawn the eco-friendly way.
Edges and hollows: recut lawn edges and fill small hollows with sand or a sand and soil mix. The lawn grows through a thin layer.
Late April to May: renovate if needed
If the lawn is compacted, patchy or mossy after winter, a renovation follows. Wait until the soil is at least 10 °C. Before that, the seed germinates poorly and weeds are often faster.
| Step | What you do |
|---|---|
| 1. Mow short | as short as your mower allows, remove clippings and thatch thoroughly |
| 2. Aerate or spike | aerate with hollow tines if the soil is compacted. Spike as a lighter measure before overseeding |
| 3. Scarify only if needed | with a clear thatch layer or lots of moss. Not a must |
| 4. Top-dress | spread quartz sand with the levelling rake and work it into the holes |
| 5. Overseed | spread the seed and work it in with the drag mat or roll it |
| 6. Keep moist | for two to three weeks until the seed has germinated |
After top-dressing, mow with a rotary mower for a few weeks until the sand has washed in. Sand in the cutting area quickly blunts a reel mower’s cutting unit. More on each step: Lawn aeration, Top-dressing your lawn with sand, Aerating vs scarifying and Sowing a lawn. Which Lawnpecker attachment is meant for what is explained in Lawnpecker attachments.
Good to know
Spring is only the second-best time for a major renovation. The soil is cooler, the seed germinates more slowly and weeds germinate at the same time. Late spring often brings a dry spell in which the young grasses suffer. If your lawn can hold out until then, plan the major treatment for September and limit yourself to spiking and spot overseeding in spring. Why is explained in Why September is the best month for lawn renovation.
May: getting into a rhythm
Mow regularly: in May the lawn grows faster than at almost any other time of year. Mow often enough that you never take off more than a third of the blade length at once. With a reel mower and a short cutting height, that often means two to three times a week in May.
Watering: the first dry spells often arrive in May. Water infrequently but deeply, early in the morning. Freshly overseeded spots need more attention. More in Watering your lawn.
Weeds: individual weeds such as dandelion are best removed while they are still small. Close the gap with a little sand and seed.
Common mistakes in spring
| Mistake | Better |
|---|---|
| Overseeding too early | wait until the soil is at least 10 °C |
| Scarifying as a routine | only for thatch or moss, otherwise aerate or spike |
| First cut very short straight away | lower the height over several cuts, except directly before a renovation |
| Reel mower on a sandy surface | use a rotary mower for a few weeks after top-dressing |
| Liming on suspicion | only after a soil analysis |
| Walking on a wet lawn | wait until the soil has dried |
Frequently asked questions
When is the first cut of the year?
As soon as the grasses are visibly growing and the surface is dry enough to walk on, usually in April, in mild areas also in late March.
Should I scarify in spring?
Only if there is a clear thatch layer or a lot of moss. For most lawns, aerating or spiking with top-dressing is the more lasting measure because it addresses the causes in the soil.
When can I overseed in spring?
Grass seed germinates from a soil temperature of about 10 °C, evenly and quickly from about 15 °C. In most regions that is late April to May.
Can I aerate in spring if I already aerated in autumn?
Yes. On compacted or heavily used lawns, twice a year makes sense. If the soil is loose, spiking is often enough in spring.
Tools
- Lawnpecker: aerating, spiking and removing weeds.
- Levelling rake: spreading sand and evening out hollows.
- Drag mat: working in sand and seed.
Featured image: lily, stock.adobe.com
